Problems in Parliament

I have previously discussed the ongoing struggle of Turkey's Kurdish minority for equal cultural and political rights.  The main Kurdish opposition party, the Peace and Democracy party (BDP), has been accused by the current government of having ties to the PKK.  The Peace and Democracy party did not itself put forth candidates in the recent election.  The leadership knew that they could not reach the existing threshold of at 10% of all votes that is required for a party to have the privilege of sending representatives to the parliament.  Instead, it backed a number of independent candidates, which are not bound by the 10% rule.

Five elected members of the Turkish Grand National Assembly who ran as independents are currently in prison on terrorism related charges.  These five were supported by the Peace and Democracy during their campaign, a fact that was probably central in the circumstances leading to their arrest.  Another recently elected Pro-Kurdish parliamentarian, Hatip Dicle, is barred from taking his seat because of a previous conviction for spreading terrorist propaganda.  Three others who were recently elected are also in jail, accused of being part of the coup conspiracy uncovered last year.  Of these alleged conspirators, two are members of the Republican People's Party (CHP) and one the Nationalist Movement Party.

The newly elected members of parliament associated with the Peace and Democracy Party, as well as those belonging to the Republican People's Party, staged a protest during the opening session of the new parliament on June 28.  In solidarity with their banned and jailed colleagues, 169 of the 550 members of the Assembly refused to be sworn in.  However, the standoff is now coming to an end.  The CHP parliamentarians will be sworn in today despite the fact there has been no real change in the status of their jailed colleagues.  The BDP seems to have been left out the the talks that have taken place between the ruling Justice and Development (AK) party and the CHP.  The continued boycott of the 35 members associated with the BDP will be largely worthless without the more numerous CHP to support them.

I am not surprised to hear about the CHP's unceremonious betrayal of their alliance with the BDP.  Founded by Ataturk, the CHP was the first political party in the Republic of Turkey and enjoyed largely unopposed power from 1923 to 1950.  During this period Kurdish rebellions were brutally suppressed and the laws restricting the public expression of Kurdish language and culture were passed.  There is certainly no love lost between the CHP and the Kurds. I have no doubt that the AK party has jailed the above mentioned Kurdish politicians for largely political reasons.  However, the AK party has also been responsible for the slow but steady improvement in the rights and recognition afforded to Kurds in Turkey over the past decade.  My hope is that this incident is an exception in the AK's largely positive record in the Kurdish issue.  Some Turkish commentators are less than optimistic about the future of the Kurds under the AK party and I can understand their concern.  The Kurds have been the Turkish Republic's go-to scape goats for almost a century and it is much easier to continue on such a deeply rutted path than to forge a new road toward true liberalism and democracy.

Travel tips from me and the NYTimes

Recently, the New York Times published two travel articles on Istanbul (which, indecently, was also voted by readers as the place they most wished to visit in 2011).

The first  is from their Frugal Traveler blog, in which the author attempts (and succeeds) at spending only $100 during a weekend trip to Istanbul.  He stays on a new friend's couch and Kadikoy and enthusiastically recommends the neighborhood as a cheaper and scenic alternative to the European shore.  Having spent a month living in Kadikoy, I would argue that it is one of the best kept tourist secrets in Istanbul.  It is a very young, mostly tourist-free neighborhood full of relaxed bars and restaurants.  The shopping is cheaper and it is home to Istanbul's largest organic food market.  A mix of stores and open stalls, the market runs along several blocks of the pedestrian-only city center and offers a stunning variety of fresh produce, fish, and cheese as well as breads, pastries and other essentials of Turkish cuisine.  Far from being an inconvenience, Kadikoy's location across the Bosphorus actually serves to its advantage.  As you can tell from my pictures, residents of Kadikoy enjoy a spectacular show almost every night as the sunsets behind the landmarks of the old city.  As the Frugal Traveler writes, passenger ferries across the Bosphorus are cheap, frequent and afford more stunning views of both of the city's shores.  Much less crowded that any other form of public transportation, the 20-25 minute trip from shore to shore is just enough time to enjoy a cup of tea and simit from the fully stocked snack bar found on every boat.  I was excited to Kadikoy mentioned  in this article, but at the same time want to remain off the tourist radar for my own selfish reasons.

A second article discusses the time-forgotten beauty of Buyukada, the largest of the Prince's Islands.  You can read about my visit to this island here.  Buyukada is another great budget-friendly destination.  Ferries to the island are inexpensive and it is full of scenic beauty.  Its small size and largely car-free roads make it the perfect place to explore by foot or bicycle.

For more travel tips from the New York Times and its readers, you can explore the Istanbul online travel guide at the NYTimes.com.

Back in Boston

I apologize for the week long gap in posting.  Between returning to the States, jet lag, and my family's holiday visit to Boston it has taken me a while to get back to a regular schedule.  I miss Istanbul (especially the weather...) but it is nice to be back with Peter and my herd of noisy guinea pigs.  Living in Turkey could be stressful at times but it was well worth it for the language immersion and first hand knowledge I gained.  I plan to continue posting about current events and religious and political issues in Turkey from time to time.  There are a few things that already happened since my last post that I want to discuss.  But first, here are some additional pictures from my time in Istanbul that I wanted to share.

Hagia Sophia

Blue Mosque

Archaeology Museum

St. Savior in Chora

Kadikoy

Leander's Tower