A few weeks ago, we went as a group to Hunkar Kosku, an Ottoman era mansion that was later used by founder of the Turkish Republic, Mustafa Kemal Ataturk. Apparently Ataturk had an official residence in every major city or town. In Bursa, as in many places, his residence has been turned into a museum, preserving the building's furnishings and decor as it was when it was used by Ataturk. The house looks like many restored historic houses, in the sense that there are few overt reminders of it's illustrious former resident. We were not allowed to take photos inside the building, but this page on the website of the greater Bursa tourist board has a few good ones. Unfortunately, I could not find a photo of what I think is the most interesting room in the building. The house is built on the slope above the city, with the entrance on the top floor and more living space on the bottom. The second "living room" on the bottom floor was built for maximum comfort in the summer heat. It is lined with marble and has a small fountain built into the floor. The fountain provided natural "air conditioning" when running. The room is windowless, having been built into the hillside, but features large, north-facing French doors which provide a view of the terraced backyard garden that overlooks the city. It reminded my of luxurious man-made cave, the perfect retreat from Bursa's hot and humid weather.
One of my favorite things about Turkey is the hidden courtyards and gardens that were built into seemingly every structure during the Ottoman period. One of my favorite is the Ipek han here in Bursa. A Han is an open courtyard in the midst of a traditional bazaar structure. They were orginally used for workshops but now serve mostly as tea gardens.
Ipek is the Turkish word for silk. In addition to being a stop on the famed "Silk Road", silk worms were raised and silk was made in Bursa up through the mid-20th century. Many silk goods are still sold in Bursa, although I am unsure if they are still made locally.
Ipek han is like a secret garden, with large trees, a fountain and a mini mosque in the middle. Though the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul is impressive for its sheer scale and variety of architecture, none of its hans compare to this one.
I am currently writing this from the Ordekli Hamam, a 15th century Turkish bath that has been restored and turned into a arts and culture center. Until a few years ago, the building was a crumbling ruin. It has been restored too look as it did centuries ago, but equipped for modern art exhibits and cultural events. You can take a virtual tour here. As is the case in all Turkish public facilities, there is tea and snacks available. One of the main rooms is now a tea room, with Ottoman style benches and a fountain. It beats Starbucks as a wifi hangout by a long shot.
In sokak kedi news I have a heartwarming story of a baby sokak kedi who is now a ev (house) kedi. One of my fellow CLS students was walking to class one morning and encountered a man who handed her a kitten. The kitten was quite young and, being separated from its mother, needed care. The program coordinator here has been taking care of the kitten until a good Turkish home can be found for it. The coordinator's Turkish mother-in-law has been cooking for the kitten and, though still small, it apparently now has a round little tummy. Here is an especially cute photo of her taken by another CLS student.
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